When it comes to training there are separate training methods:
1) asking your dog to do something and rewarding them for what they have been asked to do, and
2) fun type of training where they are rewarded for following you, and you play games with them
Both are good but keep a balance of the two. With the games based the dogs can’t really get it wrong so its always a positive interaction
The Counting Game
Good For: Increasing the bond between you and your dog, and building your dog’s confidence in different situations, getting your dog to leave items, taking the stress out of getting things from your dog
Have some food in your hands. Place a piece of food down and start to count “1, 2, 3” each time putting a tiny piece of food down. As soon as your dog gets to you, then move to another spot and start again. Keep doing this until you have run out of food, then say ‘All Gone” when we have finished.
1, 2, Treat –
Good For: Increasing the bond between you and your dog, and building your dog’s confidence in different situations, building up to more complex training.
This is a very simple game, you can do this with or without a lead, initially for 3 to 4 days only do this in the home, before using it anywhere else.
You simply walk along saying “1, 2, Treat” and when you say treat you feed a treat.
Lets Go
Good For: Increasing the bond between you and your dog, and building your dog’s confidence in different situations, avoidance of trigger situations. It’s a good idea Teach a Lets Go in a fun way with my dogs, because the day when we may need to get out of a sticky situation fast you want them to want to hear the words “Lets Go” and not get stressed
To do this walk in one direction with food in your hand and dog following you, turn 180 degrees the other way saying “Lets Go’ in a high pitch voice, run or walk away quickly and feed feed feed. Again practice this a lot when there are no people/dogs/cars or anything your dog reacts too initially, then after a couple of weeks hopefully you can use it out and about. With all training if you say it and your dog doesn’t respond, they are either too close to whats worrying them or it would be a good idea to practice more.
Matt Settle/Boundary Games
Good For: Increasing the bond between you and your dog, teaching the dog to be calm
There are lots of reasons for us to teach our dogs a boundary game or Mat Settle Exercise. We teach our dogs a place to settle. It helps them to feel content with something familiar in an unfamiliar environment. You can take the mat out with you, and once they have learnt this they then understand the context of the Mat is to stay calm.
What you Need:
A new Mat (this can be anything from a bathroom mat, door mat, or a nice cosy bed, but it needs to be new)
Some high value (to your dog) treats, I like to use something they rarely have, and of high value, for example Liver Cake, Salmon, Beef etc.
A nice comfortable environment.
Time (5 mins is all that’s needed, but quality over quantity)
What you must not do with this exercise is to rush to quickly through the stages, I would work on stage 1 for a few days, then start on stage 1 and work through stage 2 for a few days, then onto stage 3. Enjoy this training, if you’re not in the right frame of mind or mood for this then I wouldn’t do it, as it needs to be a fun positive game for both you and your dog.
Stage 1
Pop the Mat on the floor in the room
Mark & Reward any interaction with the bed (e.g. Looking towards, stepping towards, putting a paw on the mat) Say “Yes” or “good” and feed them, if they are near to the mat, feed on the mat, if not just feed for any interaction. This is all about them choosing to engage with the Mat, Keep marking and rewarding any interaction If they walk away, allow them to and wait again for any interaction.
Stage 2
Once they start to choose to go onto the mat, then Mark and Reward (all nice high pitch voices) . Mark and reward now each and every time they get onto the mat (don’t worry about what behaviour they’re offering), mark and reward every behaviour on the mat.
Stage 3 Drip Feeding
Think about the mat being a bank account, the more we fill it up the more they want to stay on the mat. With them on the mat you now want to start to drip feed them calmly, so a consistent amount of food is put onto the mat but in a calm manner. Change how many seconds in between each feed, for example 3 seconds, 5 seconds, 4 seconds etc, but it must be done slowly, as we want to encourage calmness. Don’t worry how much they are eating – as long as they stay on the mat, keep putting the treats down.
Stage 4 Release Cue
We want to teach the dogs a release cue which is attached to a high reward, so that your dog won’t want to leave the mat/boundary until they have heard the release cue. Once the dogs are choosing to go onto the mat once it is brought out or placed down then is the time to teach a release cue . Find a one word for your release command as you want your dog to love this word.
With your dog on the Mat
We say the release cue (Off for example)
Then a couple of seconds later you use food to get them off, throw the food away from the mat so your dog gets off.
Reward each time your dog gets back onto the bed. Keep repeating this cue and throwing the food away from the Mat.
Stage 5 Reward Calmness,
We are looking for calmness and a dog adjusting their position. We want to reduce the energy and excitement around the dogs, and reward any signs of calmness, We ideally want a Sit or Down, without asking for it, we need to capture any small signs of calmness. Even if every time you reward them they pop back up, they will get it eventually
Once they are happily choosing to go to their mat, and the release cue works for them, you can then bring in the cue of ‘Go to your Mat’ or ‘Go to your Bed’.
You then start to introduce distractions, Delay giving them the food Walk around them. Jump up and Down Play with the food in your hand If they remain calmly on the mat, mark and reward after the distractions.
Introduce distance. Take one step away. If they stay put, mark and reward Build up how far away you can get one step at a time, If they attempt to move, go back a step. Once they are doing it well in the home then try and other locations.
Magic Hand
Good For: This is a exercise that can be used as both a interrupter, and a way of them focusing on you, it can also increase the value of the human hand.
Initially have a small number of treats in one hand
Drop the treats (one at a time) on the dogs nose
Keep going and keep moving around
Once they have caught the treat (this may take minutes, days or even weeks) then keep practising
Once they are able to catch the treat from your hand you can introduce the ‘Magic’ cue
Once they understand what Magic means and they are able to catch, pop a lead on them and do this with the lead on.
Hand Touch/Hand Target
Good for: Bonding, Recall, Precursor to scent work
Present your hand to your dog (I like to do this from behind my back) dogs are naturally curious and are likely to investigate. As soon as her nose touches your hand, mark the behavior and reward.
Take your hand away, put it behind your back, wait a second or two, and then present it again.
Repeat this exercise until your dog is touching your hand whenever you present it. For some dogs this can take a while, its important not to push them.
You can then introduce a ‘Cue’ such as ‘Touch’
After many repetitions you will find that she will respond as soon as you ask him to ‘touch.’
You can then introduce your other hand and ask him to touch this, if she doesn’t look to touch it with him nose, you can start again using the method above. If as any point she starts to look disinterested or isn’t getting what you are asking him, then stop for a while, and go back a step until she is getting is again. When she is reliably touching your hand, you can use this cue around the home. Call your dog to come to you, and as she gets close, extend your hand and ask him to ‘touch.’ Every touch should be rewarded at this point When your dog is responding well indoors, take the exercise outside where there are more distractions.
Gradually increase the distance between you so that your dog has to travel farther to touch your hand
Recall
Good for: Safety
Say the word ‘Come’ (or a word of your choice, but not her name) whilst you are next to her
Mark and Reward
Keep repeating this until she looks at you when ever you say the word.
Move into a different room – give the command word, if she comes to you mark and reward. Repeat until she is consistently returning to you on command.
Move to outside on a long training line Give the command word, if she comes straight to you mark and reward. Repeat until she is consistently returning to you on command.
Move to a secure field off lead. Give the command word, if she comes to you mark and reward. Repeat until she is consistently returning to you on command.
Add distractions in a secure field off lead. Give the command word, if she comes to you mark and reward. Repeat until she is consistently returning to you on command despite various distractions.
You are now ready to go offlead.